This topic has been recently discussed in one of the new face painters groups on Facebook. There were quite many questions and while answering, I figured out that I should write a blog post on this topic to help many of the beginners (and not only 😉) understand better how to work with your paints and how to get the best results with the tools you own. Sometimes, a little trick can be a great life changer! Let’s begin!
Are you new to face painting industry? Check out what are the “TOP 10 must-learn face painting designs” and be secure that you will make it justice at your first gig!
Types of paints
Face paints are classified into two types, depending on what is their base ingredient.
Wax based paints include the following brands: TAG, Cameleon, Wolfe FX, Diamond FX, Kryvaline, Face Paints Australia, Global*.
* Global face paints — even though this brand contains glycerin and doesn’t have any wax, it behaves like something intermediate between a wax and a glycerin-based paint. I personally find more of the “waxy” qualities in it, that’s why I prefer to classify it as a wax based paint.
Glycerin based paints are Mehron Paradise, Superstar (FAB), Kryolan, Snazaroo.
Why do we need this classification? Because the technique of activating and purposes of using these paints will depend on their properties.
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Regular waxy paints are usually drier and possess more elasticity, that’s why the work the best for lines.
Glycerin based paints are softer and work better for being applied on the background or blended.
There are some exceptions, though, between the glycerin-based paints. Some of the colors will work great for linework too. These are some of the dark colors by Superstar (FAB).
More details about paints types and their properties are presented in Module 3 — About Face Paints. Review, comparison, and recommendations of my online Course.
Activating a new paint
As most face paints, as you know, come in a dry cake form, all you need to activate them is simply add water!
New paints may need a little more water to activate. You may either spritz it with water or work it with a wet brush. The time of activation will also depend on the consistency you want to obtain. You will need more time to work on the paint to obtain a creamy consistency and less time if you need a watery one, for instance.
Wax based paints will require more water to activate, especially the regular and the neon ones. Glycerin based paint will require less water, because they are soft enough already and you can get creamy consistency almost immediately.
Rotate your brush on paint surface and load it up to the ferrule. Be gentle to the bristles and try to keep the tip sharp.
Reactivating your paint
At the beginning of each gig, spritz all of your paints with water and leave them to activate, while setting up. Used paints will have a dried up cream on the surface that will reactivate pretty quickly once you add some water to it.
Vary the amount of water and the time of activating the paint depending on the desired consistency.
This is the most diluted paint consistency you will work with. If you dilute it even more, you can also paint shadows with it.
Watery consistency is mainly used for creating splashes, drips, and drops, like the blood in the terminator design; as well as for the watercolor technique (belly painting).
Works perfectly for linework with black or any other dark paint.
Inky consistency allows to drag paint for a long distance and have nice sharp tips at the end of your lines.
This is the most used paint consistency, as it releases the entire vibrancy from the paint.
The creamy consistency is used for bright linework done with waxy paints (eye design) and for a thick coverage with glycerin based paints (husky design).
Characteristic for wax-based paints, due to wax that gives that sticky effect.
This consistency is slightly dryer than sticky consistency and is characteristic for glycerin based paints (as they don’t have the sticky waxy ingredient in them). This consistency is perfect for blending and can also be used for stenciling.
Dry consistency can be obtained from creamy consistency in the dry brushing blending technique (leopard spots). Both sticky and dry consistencies can be used for stenciling (T-Rex skin texture).
Why do you need to know how to work with all these consistencies? Because for certain areas, paint types and techniques you will require different paint consistencies.
That’s why before moving on studying the designs in Part Three students from the International Face Painting School are working hard on practicing all of these consistencies in all existing face painting techniques: linework, double dip, one stroke and blending.
I will show you a little bit from the inside of the School. 😉 Here’s how the students are training their homework on paint consistency.
And now, let’s take a look at this artwork and analyze what paint consistencies have been used here!
- watery consistency — blood splatters and drops
- inky consistency — black outline
- creamy consistency — the body of the T-Rex, the teeth and the bones
- dry consistency — skin texture made with a stencil
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How do you feel now about working with your paints? I’d love to see your attempts on different paint consistencies in the comments below!👇👇👇